농자판(农家饭), 도농 정체성, 그리고 양생 - 중국판 시골밥의 문화적 다의성

초록

This article is an anthropological food study illuminating cultural polisemia of nongjiafan (peasant family meals) in China today. Nongjiafan is an interesting category of cuisine which has been popularized as eco-friendly green-foods good for yangsheng (self-health care) and relevant to the rural-urban identity politics in post-Reform China. This study examines the social process of nongjiafan and its surrounding discourses and practices in the changing field of material and symbolic orders of China today. In chapter II, it ethnographically delves into the cultural values and meanings of nongjiafan, from the result of which it induces two sets of discursive system, familial hospitality and green discourse meaningfully shaping the social process of nongjiafan production and consumption. The discussions in the chapter III and IV demonstrate that the production and consumption process of nongjiafan is significantly linked with the cultural construction of rural-urban relations, the rural-urban identity politics, and the radically changing politico-cultural landscape of China today.

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