Anti-Oxidant and Elastase and Collagenase Inhibitory Activity Effects of Chionanthus retusa Leaf Extracts and Their Evaluation in Cosmetics; Chionanthus retusa 잎 추출물의 항산화제, 엘라스타제 및 콜라게나제 억제 활성 효과 및 화장품에서의 평가

초록

In this study, the anti-oxidant and anti-wrinkle activities and emulsion cosmetic-assosiated stability characteristics (pH, colorimetric, viscosity, patch test, and sensual properties) of Chionanthus retusa leaf (CRL) extracts were evaluated. Total phenolics contents of CRL hot water and 60% ethanol extracts were 17.85 and 36.66 mg GAE/g, respectively. At 200 μg/mL hot water and ethanol extracts had 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging activities of 89.20 and 91.52%, respectively, and at 600 μg/mL had elastase inhibitions of 79.42 and 99.63%, and collagenase inhibitions of 32.29 and 59.03%, respectively. These results confirmed the anti-oxidant and anti-wrinkle properties of the active ingredients in CRL extracts. After four weeks of storage, CRL extracts had no effects on the pH, color, and viscosity of 10 types of cosmetics patch testing for skin reactions revealed no abnormality. Sensory evaluations on the color, scent, spreading, absorption, and overall preferences of cosmetics showed men and women scored the hot water extract better for color and overall preference but found the ethanol extract better for skin absorption. The study indicates that CRL extracts have anti-oxidant activities and stabilities suitable for use in cosmetics. © 2024 The Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition.

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